Friday, February 27, 2009

Adelaide, South Australia

February 24, 2009

So let’s say that you are in Australia and you suddenly have an urge for real German strudel. You could ask the multitude of German tourists to make you some but that is assuming they can. You could have some shipped from Bonn or Berlin or somewhere or you could visit the town of Hahndorf which is a German town in the Adelaide Hills.

It was founded by German immigrants in the 1800’s and they still have an Oktoberfest, a variety of German taverns and several German bakeries that serve, you guessed it, authentic German strudel. Try Otto’s on the one end of town and get the cherry strudel.

Toured the Barossa Valley, which is the biggest of the wine regions, and saw thousands of hectares of vines. (According to one figure I saw it was over 7000 hectares – that is over 15,000 acres). Makes the Okanagan look pretty small.

Stopped at the Wolf Blass vineyard and, considering how much of their wine we have drunk over the years, I expected some kind of brass band. Instead we got stuck behind a bus tour group and had to wait but we still got to sample a variety of wines. The band must have had the day off.

Went to another small winery for lunch. There signature wine is from vines that are over 100 years old. It doesn’t make a very big batch but what they do make sells for $160/bottle. Its called “Old Bastard” and is all sold before its bottled. Oddly enough they didn’t include it in the free wine tasting.

Stopped for the night at the Levi caravan park just 5 km from the Adelaide City centre. Had a nice site overlooking a ravine with walking paths through it – much like the ones in Toronto – complete with ducks and birds coming up out of the ravine to clean up after the campers.

McLaren Vale, Southern Australia

February 23, 2009

Camping in part of the great Australian wine region it is hard to believe that we spent most of the day rocketing along the desolate Coorong peninsula.

The highway (speed limit 110 km with no shoulders) runs parallel with the coast. Just close enough so that the vegetation is scrubby but not close enough to see the water. Even when we went through areas of grazing land it looked like it hadn’t seen rain for years (which it hasn’t).

Stopped at the town of Goolwa to see the mouth of the Murray River, Austalia’s biggest river, empty into the South Ocean.

Finally came into patches of grape vines. At least they were green.

In a caravan park with a lot of out of work grape pickers. Normally they depend on foreign travellers to pick the young vines but not this year. The heat has fried much of the crop but someone forgot to tell the marketing department. The government is still advertising for the young travellers to come down and work.

Robe, Victoria

February 22, 2009

After finishing the Great Ocean Road we settled on a campsite overlooking the ocean as we contemplated the sunset.

That sounds pretty good doesn’t it? Probably should stop there.

Truth was it was David’s birthday in Finland and we had a hell of a time trying to call him. The pay phone wouldn’t take credit cards (all the pay phones in New Zealand do by the way) and we couldn’t get internet access so we only had three minutes with him before the balance on the cell phone ran out. Sorry bud.

By the way Robe is one of the capitals of the lobster trade but a couple of tails still cost $45.

Port Campbell, Victoria

February 21, 2009


Have you ever been airsick on a road? If not then I invite you to drive the first half of the Great Ocean Road along the bottom of Victoria. Make sure that you stock up on paper bags for the passengers and a harness for the driver first.

The road was built by out of work veterans of WW1 as a government make work project and it must have been a bitch of a job. The road is mostly carved into the cliffs overlooking the sea and it follows the cliff contours pretty closely. I was too busy hanging onto the steering wheel to look but from Lana’s helpful commentary I don’t think there was much room to spare.

Occasionally it flattens out enough for a beachy resort style town but most of it just kind of hangs out there – if you get my drift. From my occasional (death defying) look I think that the views were great.

Tented in the booming town of Port Campbell with a population of 500 and with all the local food establishments priced to take advantage of the weekenders from Melbourne. The “port” itself was one little dock but I guess that, in the old days, the very small bay was the only break in the shorelines limestone cliffs.

Camped next to a younger couple from Ontario in a site right on the small river there. Nice camp kitchen where I watched a team from Geelong kick the crap out of a team from Adelaide in Aussie rules football. Haven’t a clue what the rules are except you apparently get to hit anyone that you want to at any time. No pads.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Melbourne, Victoria

February 19.20, 2009

Came into Melbourne in a lot of traffic so we found a caravan park and took a cheap tram into the city the next day. I must admit that my previous experience with Melbourne hadn’t been really favourable but this trip changed my mind.

We walked all over the Central Business District, went to an Eco Fair in Federation Square and visited the Melbourne Museum. The museum was well worth the visit and a very nice woman at an Aboriginal booth at the fair suggested that we visit the Koorie Heritage Cultural Centre.

The Koorie were (are) the tribes that were based in Southeastern Victoria. The centre was smallish but great and we learned a lot.

When you go to Melbourne make sure that you walk around see what they can do with an alley. Most other places they would be full of dumpsters and dope dealers. Here they are called Arcades and are full of people, shops and cafes. Cool.

Bob - Where are the pictures

We have recieved hundreds of emails asking what has happened to the pictures in the blog. Unfortunately we have not been able to get any up on the blog for some time due, I believe, to a technical problem on Google's end.

You can still follow the link on the blog page to look at all the pictures we have put online from the trip. Hope that helps.

February 18, 2009

Phillip Island, Victoria

Made Phillip Island today after more and more driving. Currently we are over 5,000 km since we left Sydney in only two weeks or so. Since we seem to have finally outrun the rain maybe it’s worth it.

Phillip Island is connected to the mainland by a big causeway and is a mixture of agriculture, beach resort and nature reserve – in that order. We looked at the beach (not bad), looked at the souvenir shops (T-shirts are on their way to someone) and saved the nature reserves for the next morning.

Went to the Nobbies, a rock formation on the coast, to look at the seals and bird colony. By chance we saw a penguin hiding under the boardwalk (probably moulting). It was a blue penguin - the world’s smallest.

Next we went to a Koala sanctuary and saw lots of koalas. These were the southern Australian sub species and they were huge. Instead of the grey fur of the ones around Sydney they were brownish and the big males weighed up to 11.8 kg (26 pounds). Amazing.

Snowy River Country

February 15.16.17, 2009

The last time I was in Australia I worked on a sheep station, caught kangaroos, collected crocodile eggs and met Lana at Ayers Rock. One thing that I didn’t do was get to the Snowy River country.

Back in 1982 a film was released called Man from Snowy River. My parents just had gotten cable at that time and I had the opportunity to watch the film a lot since I was kind of using their house as a base at the time. The film was one of the reasons I went to Australia. Now it was time to see the area the film was talking about.

There aren’t many places in Australia that get snow but the Snowy River area is one of them. Some people call it the Australian Alps but, having just been to the Southern Alps in New Zealand, I think that title would be a gross overstatement since the highest peak (Mount Kosciuszko) is only 2,228 m (7,310 ft).

The Snowy River starts up on that mountain so that’s where we went.

One the way there we took a really quick detour through Canberra, the national capital. Somehow it didn’t really appeal to us. The Parliament building itself is really, uh, different. Not exactly what I would have built but then again it was built in the 1980’s.

The mountain roads took us up into the alpine highlands that look so familiar to someone used to popping over the mountains in BC. We finally made it to the town of Jindabyne and stayed at the Banjo Paterson Inn. (Banjo being the man who wrote the poem “Man from Snowy River” and also “Waltzing Matilda” but you already knew that didn’t you).

The towns up here are based around the ski business but nothing like on the scale of what you would get anywhere in Canada. We drove up to Charlotte Pass, which has the distinction of holding the record of the coldest temperature ever recorded in Australia (−23 °C (−9.4 °F) – HaHaHa – Sorry, I have slept outside in colder weather than that).

We planned to walk to near the summit of Mount Kosciuszko but only made it about 2/3 of the way to the emergency shelter hut at the 7 km mark. On the way we walked over a very small Snowy River as it started its journey to the sea. The cold, rain and high winds finally turned us around but it was a great hike through the high alpine.

The next day we lost a lot of altitude in the car as we made a run for the other end of the Snowy River at Marlo near Orbost in the state of Victoria. On the way we passed a lot of brown grasslands and also a few bush fire sites. The recent bushfires here claimed over 200 people and a couple of towns last week so we kept a good lookout. There was a haze in the air as we drove and, we found out later, we drove fairly close to one of the out of control fires.

Camped that night in Orbost on the banks of the Snowy. Much reduced from Banjo’s day, with much of the water diverted for various uses. From the signage on the bank there is a group fighting to restore the river. Hope they get there.

Goulburn, New South Wales

February 14, 2009

Left the Blue Mountains as we found them – shrouded in fog and rain. Since we aren’t staying to walk there we are back to the endless driving. Today the objective is to cut around Sydney and pass through Wollongong to the South.

Drove through the rain around Sydney and stopped long enough on a Wollongong beach to watch some surfers looking for some big waves and a competition of lifeguards swimming into the surf. All in the rain and all knowing that there had been two shark attacks in two days in the area. Got to give them credit.

Decided to keep driving and made it to Australia’s first inland city – Goulburn. It has some amazingly large stone buildings from the 1800’s. Now the city seems to be facing some tougher times and the grand old facades are housing discount and fast food shops.

Still raining so we took another motel room instead of tenting it. As usual we took all the shampoo bottles and coffee packets with us. Got to save money somewhere.

Since it was Valentine’s Day we did eat out at the only Thai BYO in the city.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Katoomba, New South Wales (The Blue Mountains)

February 13, 2009

In an effort to find some great walking tracks and see some koalas we have headed for the Blue Mountains. They are called that because eucalyptus trees emit oil that can cause a blue tint in the air on a clear day. Koalas eat only eucalyptus and this would be a great spot to see one.

Besides I once almost got bitten by a very poisonous snake and fell off a cliff near here so I have some fond memories.

Of course, by the time we get there the rain has followed us and the fog is so thick we can’t see the road much less then the famous views. The high temperature has plunged to about 13C (55F). The outlook for the next five days is the same.

Really disappointed now we find a cheap motel, that will let us dry out our stuff, and plan for the next day. Had pizza and watched TV in the room if you are interested.

Dubbo, New South Wales

February 12, 2009


Long day driving through dry open grassland. At one point I stopped to listen to the silence and smell the smells. I could easily live here but I am not sure that anyone would visit me. Stations out here are anywhere from 10,000 to 50,000 acres in size so I would have plenty of elbow room.

We saw lots and lots of emus on either side of the road along with a few kangaroos. Once we stopped for some of the birds at the side of the road and a mother and two “chicks” (only 5 ft tall) walked right in front of the car.

Made it to Dubbo, a very big regional centre, by nightfall and planned to go to a big zoo there the next day. That night was very pleasant so we set up our tent at a local caravan park and settled in for the night. Shortly there after the sky opened up with thunder, lightening, high winds and lots of rain. Very considerately it stopped just before dawn except for a steady drizzle. Nothing like packing a wet tent to get your day off to a great start.

Went to the zoo but found the price of $39/adult to be too much for our price range so we were on the road again.

St. George, Queensland

February 11, 2009


The road south wasn’t as bad was we thought with only one section under water. With our little rental car we have virtually no ground clearance. The local trucks all can do at least three feet since when it rains here every other kilometre on the road is a “floodway”. Translated that means that the government doesn’t want to build culverts or bridges so it is simpler to just let the water run over the road. Since it doesn’t rain that often it is a compromise that most people can live with.

About two hours out of Springsure the rain stops and we leave the clouds behind. The land starts to open up with vast landscapes on either side. Sometimes there are fences and huge (500+ acres) cultivated fields and sometimes there are just grass and trees. It looks like an African savannah. The only thing missing is the elephants.

We wanted to do something in Springsure before we left the area as there were some cool sounding gorges and walks “nearby”. In that part of Australia nearby is often only 30, 40 or 60 kilometres away which isn’t that bad. What was bad is that many of the gravel roads are impassable to a vehicle like ours after a rain. This is not the tourist season around here. Everyone waits until there is less heat and less rain. When we got to St. George we found out that the temperature was 41C (106F) two days before. For us they lowered it to 30C or so. Nice of them.

Found an interesting winery in St. George and spent an hour doing the wine/port tasting (it was a slow day). We tried all the reds and then all the whites and then some liquors and then the port. While we were doing this customers would come in and ask for the FGP port. Having tried all the port, and not having seen one like named that, we asked. It seems that the owner had one label for the tasting room (St. George Port) and another one for the regulars. If I can get a picture up of it I will but, just in case I can’t, then be sure to ask for the “Fucking Good Port”.

We don’t pass through many towns. Some are a few buildings while others are big regional hubs with 2,000 people or so. The stations that we see on the side of the road are only known by their mailboxes.

Springsure, Queensland

February 10, 2009

With the difficult decision that we won’t be going for the Great Barrier Reef behind us, we are faced with making up a lot of kilometres to work our way back down the country.

The rain was still falling as we left MacKay and the rest of the day was much the same with overcast skies and wet conditions. When we hit Emerald, we were going to try to stop and see some sights (Emerald is the largest producer of sapphires in the world) but then the skies really opened up.

For anyone who has not seen a tropical downpour it is hard to explain. Let us just say that we kept our sandals on as we had to almost wade around town to find something to eat. With such a large amount of water in such a short period of time the streets, parking lots and walkways were all ankle deep.

Our route for the next little while will be what they call the “Great Inland Way”. It is considered by many to be the outback but I just think of it as being in the bush. It is one of those places where you carry extra water in the car and fill up the tank whenever you hit one-half empty. This is really rural Australia.

We make it as far as Springsure since we are not going to risk driving at night. The roads here are littered with hundreds of dead kangaroos and it is no coincidence that most of the trucks here have heavy duty bars across the front. Hitting a 30 kg (80 lbs) roo at 100 km/hr can do some awful thing to your evening.

When the nights are nice we try to find a caravan park to set up the tent in since they are so cheap. When it is raining, we look for a hostel or a cheap motel. In Springsure it is a small motel with just a few units that caters to the various mine workers moving through the area.

Springsure is a booming town of 300 people who provide services to the surrounding stations (ranches). We had the small deal meal for $10 at the local pub where the beers were cheap and some of the locals ogled Lana. I think that she liked the attention but not the flies or lack of air conditioning.

It rains hard the whole night and we wonder what the roads will be like tomorrow.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Gladstone to MacKay, Queensland

February 8.9, 2009

Made our way up the main coast road (which is nowhere near the coast). Drove over 800 kilometres in the last two days through a lot of nothing. The scenery changed from hills to grass lands with scattered trees.

The number of dead kangaroos on the road increased the farther north we went as did the isolation. Stopped at a few small towns and found only the pub, a school and the police station. Good thing for us that we weren’t in trouble – the police stations all had a closed sign on the front door!

Made a very tough decision today in MacKay. The plan was to go to Townsville (about another 500 km) and then out to Magnetic Island on the Great Barrier Reef. I hadn’t made the Reef the last time and was really looking forward to it.

The reality was that most of northern Queensland is flooded. The road between Townsville and Cairns had been cut off for days and the road from MacKay to Townsville supposedly had only one lane open. Since we are driving a Kia Rio that has maybe six inches of water clearance it didn’t help matters.

For the last 400 km, we have passed lots of signs that warn of the roadway flooding. On the helpful side they do put measuring posts on the roadside so that you can see how flooded it is. Starts to make you understand why a lot of the trucks have their exhausts re-routed to the roof.

It has also been raining non-stop for the last five hours and the forecast is for continuous rain for the next week. Guess the Great Barrier Reef will have to wait. We will start back down the interior toward all those fires raging in the south (did I mention those) near the border of Victoria and New South Wales. At the motel, we are staying in tonight we heard about a woman who was stranded in Cairns because of the rain while her home burned to the ground in the bush fires of Victoria – quite the irony!

Noosa Heads

February 6.7, 2009


Did you know that nudists seem to get upset if you aren’t nude when they are?

Stayed two nights (in a caravan park) outside of Noosa Heads. Noosa Heads is a popular resort town that Lana and I stayed at 23 years ago. (if my kids are reading this it was in separate rooms with locked doors).

At the time it was upscale but still quaint. Sometime in the last 20 years a developer from Miami got a hold of it and turned it into a tasteless collection of high end chain stores and expensive cars.

We wanted to walk again in the National Park there again since we had seen a Koala Bear there the last time. We couldn’t get near the main entrance since their was a surfer’s festival on and the place was full.

We did get in the back way and had a nice two hour walk in the high humidity and heat in our hiking gear and boots. Good way to sweat off those pounds.

Part of the track led down to an out of the way “informal” nudist beach. It is amazing the looks that you get when you walk through a beach like that. Somehow, they can make you feel dirty for having clothes on. I almost expected them to make a phone call to the local police. They probably would have, if they had had a pocket to put the phone in.