Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Queenstown to Bluff


January 19, 2009

Took the scenic route from Queenstown cutting across the western part of the Southland to Te Annue (the gateway to the fiords). At first the road was your typical winding narrow one hanging on the edge of a mountain overlooking big lakes. It then turned into a gentle wide one that presented us with views of big paddocks (fields for those of you who are unworldly) filled with thousands of sheep. Apparently we were in an area where the cattle hadn’t yet eaten all the sheep although there were fields were the two coexisted, for the moment.

Some of the paddocks had higher fences and contained herds of red deer and one of them had a herd of elk.

After a few hours of driving we reconnected with coast close to Invercargill. The weather went from sunny to cold and wet with increasing winds. This is the southwest corner of NZ and the weather patterns that hit here come directly from the Antarctic.

Had lunch in Invercargill but decided not to stay the night but rather to head to the port town of Bluff where we would catch the ferry to Stuart Island. We did walk around a tremendous central park in town that was laid out in a very formal manner with a central band shell, rose gardens, museum, wildlife park and, of course, the croquet club. It must have covered 30 acres at least and was in immaculate condition.

Pulled into Bluff after some really high winds off the water. Our faithful land cruiser has a high profile and, on some of the curves, felt like it wanted to fly.

The town of Bluff used to be a thriving one, shipping southland products and fish, but a big plant closure in 1991 destroyed the local economy. There were more empty storefronts then occupied ones on the main street and the gloomy weather didn’t help the impression. Stayed in the hostel located in the old grand Post Office in a private room with ten foot ceilings. Bluff is the end of all the roads in NZ. Look at the sign.

The last time we were in NZ (separately of course) parts of the South Island had been wet and cold. The lack of central heating in NZ didn’t help. With the wind blowing through the crack in the window our memories came rushing back. By the way don’t drink the water in Bluff as it has to have more chlorine in it then any place I can remember.

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